Tuesday in Cortona

It’s our last full day in Cortona.  We eat breakfast, which we have narrowed down to arugula, carrots and tomatoes with olive oil, mixed nuts with plain yogurt, and fruit.  Each table is presented daily with a tower of assorted breads on the top dish, various fruits on the middle dish and usually two slices of ham and different cheeses on the bottom dish.  We are also served an additional basket of delicious, fresh baked bread.  We both have cappuccino, as well as still water.  I’m learning to love breakfast.

We take another long walk up to the hilltop above the village.  We visit first Chiesa di San Cristoforo.  There’s a little posting outside the church, written by Frances Mayes, (Under the Tuscan Sun), that says this is her favorite little church in the town. It is small and charming.

We hike up the steep hill further to Basilica di Santa Margherita, said to have been established by St. Francis of Assisi.  Each time we come upon into a basilica, Shawn encourages me to go in, which I do.  I feel a certain reverence as I don the light covering I bring to cover my shoulders.  I look all around, once inside the sanctuary, taking in the style of décor, the artwork, whether it’s simple or ornate, as well as take note of the people around me.  Often, I take a seat in one of the wooden pews and offer up a heartfelt prayer.  I feel calm and peaceful and at home.

Our next stop is quite a cultural contrast to the basilica.  Near the top of the hill is Fortezza del Girifalco.  This is a fort from hundreds of years ago which now houses a museum, currently displaying contemporary artwork highlighting real-life topics such as work, the journey of water, death and even sex.  The last two mentioned especially caught my attention.

In the death exhibit, there was a display done by a photographer who, with their permission, photographed people shortly before their deaths and then again shortly after.  It was a bit shocking, and yet beautiful, at the same time.  It brought me back to the memory of how beautiful my momma looked after she died.

The sex exhibit was called Sexual Fantasies, by Miriam Boulos.  For me, the significance in this display is that Miriam is a Lebanese woman and states that “…in this collaborative work, we are the ones talking about our desires, owning them, and taking back what belongs to us.” She has authored a book, “What’s Ours”, which I see can be purchased on Amazon.

After our walk, we find ourselves briefly at the pool and order a light lunch.  A storm rolls in and the staff must close the area.  We take our lunch of assorted cheeses, fresh bread and olives up to our room.  The rain comes down hard and heavy for hours.  We are thrilled by the thunder and lightning.  Our evening plans for a last meeting with friends is cancelled as my friend Cheryl sends me a message that says, “Bella, we’re not going out tonight”  We learn the next day that all the shops have closed early.  The hills are so steep that the slippery rock roads would be unsafe.

We have dinner in our hotel restaurant for our last evening and head to bed early.  Tomorrow is travel day to Rome.  Our European adventure continues.